Thursday, January 19, 2012

Crossing the Kalahari

Shankar's solo crossing of the Kalahari would have gone down in song and legend, if he had indeed done so in real life. Indeed, there are quite a few people who have actually done so and lived to tell the tale. William Leonard Hunt is supposedly the first white man to cross the Kalahari on foot and survive, at least according to Wikipedia here. Also known as the Great Farini, here's a fetching picture of the man with two pieces of arm candy; whether before or after his Kalahari crossing is not known.






















At some point in time, perhaps not too long ago, crossing the Kalahari must have been one of those feats which must have been ranked along with climbing the Everest as one of five most foolhardy things to do. No longer, I guess. Nowadays, a few hundred people are climbing the Everest every suitable day, and judging from the books that get written after these expeditions, the route up the mountain on a bright Sunday morning must be sporting a traffic jam up and down the South Col.

Crossing the Kalahari is now a slightly more difficult journey than a walk in the park. Consider this; the author of Lone Journeys writes as follows:

"In February 1997, after travelling through South Africa and arriving in Windhoek, Namibia's capital, by bus from Capetown, I enquired about the possibilities of a desert trek in Windhoek's central tourist office. I did not seem to have any luck because distances are fast and transport is rare for that part of the world. Additionally, whilst the lonely landscape appeals to some, overall the Kalahari is not known to have many points of interest and therefore is not the destination of mainstream Africa excursions. Furthermore, the usual Africa traveller wants to see wildlife and in that regard the Kalahari does not offer as much as other areas.


"However, just as I was leaving the tourist office, a staff member who had overheard my request called me back. Apparently he knew of a small adventure travel company that had just taken possession of some new vehicles and wanted to test them in a Kalahari crossing. Needless to say, he arranged the contact and several days later, on 19 February, I joined two drivers on an adventure trip through the desert. Our route was to take us into Botswana and then across the Kalahari via the northern track towards Maun and the Okavango Delta.

Lion Sunset
After a gigantic scenic drive with a very remote feeling, some game viewing (mostly antelopes, gemsboks, springboks and even one lion) and a spectacular sunset we overnighted in Ghanzi. Ghanzi which sits on a lime stone ridge was once famous for cattle ranching. Now it is a popular rest stop when crossing the Kalahari. Indeed, lodging and dinner were excellent at the Kalahari Arms Hotel. 

The next day we headed to the Danish run Ghanzicraft Cooperative, an outlet for local crafts people, and I met with bushmen, their wives and their children at the local school. As we approached Maun, I felt sorry to leave this unspoilt African wilderness, especially since I noticed that the new Trans Kalahari Highway, built largely with German money, was almost completed. It seemed I had crossed this incredible desert just in time."

And now with the Trans Kalahari Highway, it must be really a longish drive in someone's SUV, perhaps no more fraught than the drive from Mumbai to Pune. 

Oh how are the mighty humbled!

A detour to the Zambezi

Shankar and Diego don't actually track the Zambezi for long. But the Zambezi is such a wonderful place that I have decided to share some information about the river anyway. So here goes. (Incidentally, you can go here and here for more details about the river. The first one is a beautiful site on tourism in Zambia, and has some great pictures of the Zambezi.)

The Zambezi (also spelled Zambesi) is the fourth-longest river in Africa, and the largest flowing into the Indian Ocean from Africa. The area of its basin is 1,390,000 square kilometres (540,000 sq mi),[1][2] slightly less than half that of the Nile. The 3,540-kilometre-long river (2,200 mi) has its source in Zambia and flows through Angola, along the borders of Namibia, Botswana, Zambia again, and Zimbabwe, to Mozambique, where it empties into the Indian Ocean.

The Zambezi's most spectacular feature is the beautiful Victoria Falls. Other notable falls include the Chavuma Falls at the border between Zambia and Angola, and Ngonye Falls, near Sioma in Western Zambia.

The size of the river basin is pretty huge:















Easily the most spectacular sight in the river, and indeed the world, is the Victoria Falls. Some day, some time, you must see it for yourself. These photos can at best be an appetizer.






































Diamonds and Death

[The book is available at various online stores such as Rupa, Flipkart, Infibeam, Bookadda, Crossword, Linuxbazar (!!), and at Rediff.] 

The epic journey undertaken by Shankar and Diego Alvarez had just one goal - find the diamonds hidden in the Mountain of the Moon. This dream, or maybe it's just greed, has driven men for millenia. The search for riches has not only created huge people migrations in the 18th and 19th centuries, they have also created great works of art and entertainment - Chaplin's "The Gold Rush", the Indiana Jones films, the books by Rider Haggard, and of course "Chander Pahar." 
The search for riches often results in failure and death, and not very pleasant deaths either. In "Chander Pahar", both Jim and Diego are torn apart by the three-toed monster which Shankar never gets to see. In finding the diamonds in the Richtersveldt Mountains, Shankar loses his way in the tunnels and almost dies of thirst. 

This relationship between diamonds and death is still not dead (no pun intended!) Many of us will have seen the film "Blood Diamond", the 2006 political thriller film directed by Edward Zwick and starring Leonardo DiCaprio, Jennifer Connelly and Djimon Hounsou. The title refers to blood diamonds, which are diamonds mined in African war zones and sold to finance conflicts, and thereby profit warlords and diamond companies across the world. Wikipedia has this to say about 'blood diamonds', aka 'conflict diamonds' - "In relation to diamond trading, conflict diamond (also called a converted diamond, blood diamond, hot diamond, or war diamond) refers to a diamond mined in a war zone and sold to finance an insurgency, invading army's war efforts, or a warlord's activity, usually in Africa where around two-thirds of the world's diamonds are extracted. The phenomenon of conflict minerals has the same nature." 

The countries in Africa that are affected by these stones include Angola, Liberia, Sierra Leone, Côte d'Ivoire, Democratic Republic of the Congo, The Republic of Congo and Zimbabwe. The UN has a fascinating article on Conflict Diamonds here

Probably the most famous diamond mines in the world are the Kimberley mines, in Northern Cape in South Africa. The town has considerable historical significance due its diamond mining past and siege during the Second Boer War. Notable personalities such as Cecil Rhodes (the founder of Rhodesia, now Zimbabwe) made their fortune here and the roots of the De Beers corporation can also be traced to the early days of the mining town. There's a fascinating history of the mines here, here, and here

The original Kimberley mine closed in 1914, a few years before Shankar's visit to Africa.